Some people use a sheet a paper and many printer manufactures recommend it this way however I use a business card. Don’t cut corners on this, take the time to get each corner perfect and locked in. Getting proper Squish and bed Calibrationĭepending on your printer you will need to learn how to level the print bed for that particular printer first. If you still want to make the mix it’s just a matter of dissolving ABS plastic in acetone until it gets creamy, viola you have ABS juice. So if your clumsy and don’t have a well ventilated area, maybe hold off on the ABS/acetone for now. I built a ventilated, thermally regulated enclosure for ABS printing. Unfortunately this ABS/acetone mix is highly flammable, noxious off-gases, corrosive and very sticky. Most times I only use the Kapton tape but for some ABS builds that have little surface contact with the build plate I use ABS juice. If you mess up you can just peel off and try again with little worries. Hold the scraper at a diagonal and run gently along the the length of the tape. It’s also recommended to use a plastic scraper to press the tape down against the glass to get a bubble free layer. Be sure that there are no bubbles under the tape before applying and carefully line up the lengths of tape against each other and press down. Get a plastic tub big enough to accommodate the glass build plate, fill with water and cut some lengths of Kapton tape and apply under the water. To apply the tape you’ll need to remove the glass from the build plate and apply the tape underwater or with a spray bottle and water. It’s functional between −269 to +400 ☌, is used in space and also adheres very well under water among several other attributes. I only use Kapton tape and sometimes a self made acetone/ABS mixture. We are seeing things like painters tape, hairspray, glue sticks etc applied to the bed in hopes the print will stick. I don’t use any of these as I feel it’s not consistent or reliable and typically just makes a mess to clean up. Related Story BuildTak Launches New FlexPlate System For Easy Removal of 3D Prints Print bed additives (tape, glue stick and hairspray)Ī lot of people are using a variety of things applied to their print bed to get better adhesion. BuildTak sheets are available in different sizes on Amazon, Aliexpress et cetera. Just explicitly follow their setup instructions with little to no first layer squish otherwise your print will become part of your printer. If after reading this post and you still have adhesive problems, BuildTak will fix it. Changing your nozzle temp, material used, print speed, et cetera may require re-discovery of the optimal nozzle height.25mm (or the thickness of a typical business card) and run a test print, paying close attention to the first layer. To find the sweet spot, it is always better to start with the nozzle height higher than what you might be used to with other solutions. Start leveling at a safe nozzle height of about.It is crucial that you discover the optimal nozzle height for your 3D printer and settings. After contacting support they recommended me to find ‘the sweet spot’. I have been using BuildTak for a few months now and thus far it sticks extremely well, almost too well. PEI sheets are available on Amazon, Aliexpress et cetera. It mostly comes in the form of a sheet that you attach on for instance a glass bed. It makes the use of rafts (see below) redundant. PEI (polyetherimide) is a surface that makes your 3D prints stick better to the print platform. Everything starts with the first layer, the foundation if you will of your printing. Bed adhesion and getting those first layers to stick are critical to your success at printing. Your print is ruined, you have to start over and this time with the constant worry if the print will fail or not. Everything seems ok at first but you leave the room for 5 minutes only to come back to a mess of filament and a dislodged print. Your 3D printer is all fired up, filament loaded and ready to go, you think you have it all under control and press print.
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